Sewing-machine



. 8 9 l V. n N d e n e .t a P .r 3 7 1 B 6 n N SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 17, 1896. Reiaewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

6 Sheets-Sheet I..

(No Model.)

1% van i021 m: uonms PETERS 00,. PHOTO-DINO wnsums'rou. :1. :2V

No. (3,473. Patented Nov. 1,1898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Ai ncafion-m d Se t. 17, 1896. Renewed Man-88, 1898.) (No Model.) -6Sheets-Sheet 2'.

. Patented Nov. l, I898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE. (Applivation filed Sept. 17, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26,1898.)

6 Shuts-Sheet 3.

(N0 Model.)

'jnveniar fii/W $2264. 6. M

m: Nonms v items (10.. PHOTO-LlTHO-. WASHINGYON, ov c.

No. 6|3,473. Patented Nov. 1, I898.

F. H. RICHARDS. sgwmq MACHINE.

(Application filed Sepig. 1 7,-1B96. Renewed Mar. 28, 1898.)

(No Model.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 4.

' 7 ggams'sm esse's/ With fimwm THE nonms PETERS c0, PHOTO-LIYHQ.WASHINGTON, 12v 0.

No. 6|3.473. Patented Nov. l, I898.

F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 17, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

(No Model.) s sheet-sneet s.

Witnesses, jflaenioh' No. 6|3,473. Patented Nov. l I898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filad Sept. 1-7, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

' 6 Sheets-8heet 6.,

(No Model.)

Wzirz es 8 98/ m2: Norms PErzas co. wuoroumo. WASHINGYQN. 0.1:.

' QNITED STATES v.

PATENT CFFICE.

SEWING-MACHINE;

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 613,473, dated November1, 1898 Application filed $eptember 17, 1896. Renewed March 26, 1898.Serial No. 675,334. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known thatI, FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States,residing at Hartford, in the county of Hartford and State ofConnecticut, have invented certain new and useful lmprovements inSewing-Machines of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, the object being to providean improved machine adapted to produce a double seam of a peculiar kind.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improvedsewing-machine in which the stitch-forming mechanism will comprise aseries of alternately-acting needle mechanisms and a rotatable loopermechanism having a series of three or more loop-takers all operative inthesame direction.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improvedsewing-machine provided with an improved looper mechanism having aseries of loop-takers, such series comprising a plurality of sets ofoppositely-disposed looptakers and each set comprising two or moreloop-takers operative in connection with one needle of the series ofneedle mechanisms and the loop-takers of one set being operative inalternation with the loop-takers of the other set.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved rotatablelooper having two sets of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, each setcomprising a plurality of loop-takers all operative in connection with apair of alternately-operable needles, whereby a thread-.

loop of one needle will be engaged by the looper and be carried entirelyaround the same to engage a thread-loop of the other needle to therebyform a chain-stitch in which each loop of the series of loops willextend through a companion loop or in which the alternating loops of thetwo lines of loops will extend one through the other and whereby adouble seam will be formed in which the alternating stitches or loopswill be made of different threads and in which the fabric will have onone side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallel stitches and onits opposite side a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed stitchesor loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, thebight of thereof in horizontal section.

each loop engaging its companion loop intermediate its ends.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine having animproved feed mechanism and having or embodying an improved means foradjusting the same.

In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification,Figure 1 is a plan view of one construction of the machine, a partthereof being broken away and showing a piece of work having thisimproved double seam. Fig. 2 is a front view thereof partly broken awayand partly in section. Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine lookingtoward the right in Fig. 2, parts being shown in dotted lines and thepresser-foot bar being broken away. Fig. 4is an opposite end view of themachine looking toward the left in Fig. 2, partly broken away and partlyin section. Fig. 5 is a plan of a part of the bedplate, with the upperpart of the machine broken away, and showing parts of the mechanism indotted lines and having a part Fig. 6 is a votical sectional view of aportion of the 1 chine-head, showing the needle-bars and needles inpositions relatively to each other and relatively to a portion of therotatable looper, one of the needles being shown in front of the otherand one on each side of said looper. Fig. 7 is a top side view of apiece of work with this improved form of stitch. Fig. 8 is. an underside view of the same, showing the diagonally-disposed loops. Fig. 9, isa transverse sectional view in line b b, Fig. 7. Fig. 10 is adiagrammatic View showing the relative movements of the needles. Fig. 11is a view of the cam device for actuating the needle-bars and needles,the rolls of the needlebar levers being in their starting positions andcorresponding with the lines of movements of the needles, as shown inFig. 10. Fig. 12 is a cross-sectional view in line 0 c, Fig. 11,looking. toward the right. Fig. 13 is likewise a cross-sectional view inline d cl,

Fig. 11, looking toward the left. Figs. 14 to 37, inclusive, are aseries of detail views illustrating the various positions of the needlesand looper and the manner of forming the improved seam and stitchhereinafter more particularly set forth; and Fig. 38 is a longitudinalsectional view of a portion of the feed mechanism, illustrating moreclearly the manner of adjusting the same.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of thedrawings.

As a preface to a description of this improved sewing-machine it will beunderstood that while it is shown adapted to form a chainstitch it mayalso be used, if desired, to form a lock chain-stitch by employing arotatable looper carrying a bobbin, and it will also be understood thatthe supporting parts of this improved machine and the various details ofmechanism may be widely varied without departing from the scope of thisinvention.

This improved sewing-machine comprises in a general way needle mechanism(designated generally by A) embodying a series of alternately-operableneedles; looper mechanism (designated in a general way by B) embodying aseries of sets of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, such seriescomprising three or more loop-takers, and which needle mechanism andlooper mechanism combined constitute stitch-forming mechanism(designated in a general way by having or embodying means for actuatingthe same, feed mechanism (designated in a general way by D) likewisehaving or embodying suitable means for actuating and adjusting the same,and looptake-np mechanism, (designated in a general way by The frameworkof the machine, which may be of any suitable construction adapted forthe purpose, is herein shown, however, in its preferred form, comprisinga horizontal bedplate 2, having a series of three downwardlyextendingbrackets 3, 4, and for supporting the mechanism hereinafter set forth, aremovable throat-plate 7 at one end thereof, an upright support 8 at theopposite end thereof, and a horizontal support 0 joined thereto, saidsupports 8 and 0 forming the arm 10 of the machine, which is hereinshown as a skeleton arm, at the outer end of which is theneedle-bar-receiving head 11, disposed in vertical alinement with thethroatplate 7.

The needle mechanism A, which forms a part of the stitch-formingmechanism 0, in its preferred construction herein shown and described,comprises a pair of needle bars or carriers cc and y, each adapted toreceive a needle, as so and 3 which may be secured thereto in anysuitable way, such as by clamping devices 17, and which needle bars orcarriers are mounted for reciprocation in bearings in the machine-head11 in any desired way, herein shown, however, disposed side by side, andtherefore one in front of the other. The needle-bars are preferablyprovided at their upper ends with suitable threadtake-up devices, hereinshown as downwardlyextending arms 18 and 18, having thread-receivingloops 1!) and 19 at their free ends. As one means for operating theseneedle-bars, and thereby reciprocating the needles alternately, andwhich means may constitute a part of the needle mechanism, if desired,and therefore a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, each needle bar isconnected with a cam member or cylinder, although other devices may beemployed, by means of suitable levers. This cylinder 20 has a pair ofsimilar cam-grooves 21 and 22 and is mounted 011 a shaft 23, journaledfor rotation in suitable bearings 24 and 25 of the framework, and isherein shown adapted to receive motion from the usual driving-pulley 25and hand-wheel 26, disposed on the outer end of the shaft 23. Thiscam-cylinder is preferably so formed that it comprises two members a andc, which are adjustably secured in position by means of clampingdevices, such as screws 27, whereby such members are rotativelyadjustable.

Supported on a transverse stud 28, carried by the arm 10 of themachine-frame, are the needle-bar-actuating levers comprising twoindependent levers 29 and 30, each consisting of a pair of armsoperatively connected with the cam-cylinder at one end and with aneedle-bar at the other end to impart motion to the needles, and forthis purpose the arm 31 of one lever, as 29, has its outer end pivotallysecured to one needle-bar, as a), by a suitable pivot device or stud 32,the machinehead being provided with a slot 33 to permit the properreciprocation of such stud. The opposite end of this arm 31 is joined toa hub journaled on the transverse stud 28, which hub also carries thedownwardly-extending arm 3% of said lever, which has its free endprovided with an antifrietion bearing or roll working in one of thecam-grooves, as 21, of the cylinder 20. The other lever, 30, issubstantially similar, one of its arms, as 35, having its outer endpivotally secured to the other needle-bar y, a similar slot 33 beingformed in the opposite side of the head 11 for this purpose and itsopposite end beingjoincd to a hub journaled on the stud 28, and whichhub carries the downwardlyextending arm 36 of said lever, likewisehaving its lower end provided with an antifriction device or rollworking in the other cam-groove 22 of the cam-cylinder.

Owing to the particular construction of each lever it is in the natureof a bell-crank lever journaled, as above stated, for oscillatorymovement on the transverse stud 28, and which is herein shown havingahead 28 and a nut 28 for securing said actuating-levers in position,one preferably at each side of the skeleton arm 10.

The cam-grooves 21 and 22 of the cylinder 20 are so formed and disposedone in front of the other and timed relatively to each other that eachneedle will be alternately actuated to permit the looper to receive aloop, and both needles will be above the fabric at certain predeterminedperiods in the operation of the machine and after each descent of oneneedle to thereby permit the feed of the fabric, as hereinafter morefully set forth.

Mounted within the machine-head 11 in any desired way is the usualpresser-foot or fabric-clamp 40. In the preferred form thereof,

however, herein shown the head has a pair of the presser-bar for raisingand lowering the same to thereby release and engage the fabric. Thepresser-foot 46, which may be secured to the bar in any desired way, ispreferably somewhat Wider than the usual presser-foot of single-needlemachines and is preferably provided with a pair of parallel slots, onefor the passage of each of the two needles.

The looper mechanism B, which is somewhat similar in operation to thatset forth in my application filed September 5, 1896, Serial N 0.604,993, in its preferred construction shown, comprises a disk-shapedmember 50, having adjacent to its periphery a series of 1oop-takers,preferably in the nature of hooks 51, for engaging the loops of theneedlethreads and is supported below the bed or throat-plate in anydesired manner for rotary movement. In the form shown, however, thisimproved looper is peripherally support-. ed for rotary movement by aseries of rolls 52, herein illustrated as six in number, rotatablymounted upon adjustable roll-carriers 53, which are herein showncomprising studs having eccentrically-disposed shanks 54, extendingthrough transverse recesses in the bracket 3 and provided with-nuts 55at the ends thereof, by means of which said studs are adjustably securedto the bracket and by means of which also the positions of thesupporting-rolls may be changed relatively to the periphery of thelooper which they support. These supporting-rolls may be of duplicateconstruction and interchangeable one with the other and will in practicehe preferably so disposed relatively to the periphery of the looper thatat no time in the rotation thereof will all the loop-takers becontiguous to all of such rolls and also so disposed as to permita clearunobstructed space at the upper edge of the looper contiguous to thethroat-plate in a manner that will be clearly understood on inspectionof the drawings. These supportingrolls will in practice be peripherallygrooved to receive and engage the peripheral track of the looper 50,which will be preferably wedge shape in cross-section.

The looper 50 is provided, as above stated, with a series of loop-takers51 for engaging the needle-threads and which in the preferred form showncomprises a series of hooks formed in the periphery thereof andwhichseries of hooks comprehend two sets an and a, each set comprisingthree hooks, as m, m, and m and n, M, and m and disposed one set on eachside of the peripheral line of the looper,

whereby they will face in opposite directions relatively to each otherand also so disposed that one hook, as m, of the set m will be adjacentto, but in front of, a hook, as M, of the opposite set M, whereby theseries of oppositely-facing hooks are arranged in pairs, thereby forminga set of three pairs of'hooks operative alternately with each other andall of said hooks being operative in the same direction, as hereinaftermore fully set forth. In the present construction these loop-takers orhooks are formed by recesses or spaces 57 and 57 extending transverselythrough the looper adjacent to the track portion thereof and each pairof hooks of the series having its loop-engaging faces or pointsextending in opposite directions-that is to say, the hook m, formed byone recess 57, will have its loopengaging face or point adjacent to oneside of the peripheral line of the looper, while its companion hook, as01 formed by a similar recess 57, will have its loop-engaging face orpoint adjacent to the opposite side of the peripheral line of thelooperwhereby all the hooks of the series 51 will have theirloop-engaging faces or points alternately extending in oppositedirections relatively to the peripheral line of the looper, so that whenthe looper is in position one needle will operate on one side and theother on the opposite side thereof and whereby'the set of hooks, as m,at one side of the peripheral line of said looper will operatecontinuously with one needle, as 00, disposed adjacent to that side,while the set of hooks, as n, at the opposite side of said peripheralline will operate continuously with the other needle, as y, disposed atthat side thereof, all the hooks of both sets working in the samedirection. It will be understood, however, that if it should be desiredto form a lock chain-stitch a looper or shuttle adapted to receive abobbin will be used, as hereinbefore set forth. As one means forimparting rotary movement to said looper, and which means may form apart of the looper mechanism, if desired, and therefore a part of thestitch-forming mechanism, the looper 50 is shown provided with a seriesof three transversely-extending apertures forming driversockets 58,disposed equidistantly apart and which may or may not extend entirelythrough the same, according to the width and construction of looperused, and which sockets are adapted to receive laterally-extendingdriving-pins 60, carried by radial arms 60 of a driver 61,which driveris herein shown disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation ofthe looper and carried on the outer end of a shaft 62, journaled forrotation at one end in a bearing 63 of the bracket 3 and at its oppositeend in a bearing 64 of the bracket 4, such driving-pins 60 being adaptedsuccessively to engage in the driver-sockets to thereby rotate thelooper on the rotation of the shaft in a similar manner to thatheretofore set forth in my Patent No. 571,457, granted November 17,1896. It will be understood, however, that instead of disposing thedriver in a plane obliquely to the plane of rotation of the looper suchlooper may be disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation ofthe driver in a similar manner to that set forth in my application,Serial No. 536,338, filed January 26, 1894:.

The feed mechanism D in its preferred form comprises the feed-dog '70,which may be of any suitable structure, having an upper serrated side 71extending through the recesses or slots in the throat-plate 7 andremovably secured in any desired way to a feed-dog carrier or lever 7 2,pivotally mounted for vertical and horizontal oscillations on the underside of the bed-plate 2 in any preferred way. In the structure shown,however, a downwardly-extending bracket or carrier 73 is pivotallysecured in a recess 74 of the bed-plate 2, Figs. 2 and 5, by means of afastening device, such as a screw '75, extending through the walls ofsuch recess 7 at and the bracket 73, whereby said bracket is supportedfor vertical oscillation. On the free end of this bracket the feed-lever72 is pivotally secured for horizontal oscillation by means of a stud orbolt 7 G.

Pivotally secured to one end of the feeddog and to the under side of thebed-plate 2 is a link 70, which extends in parallelism with the feed-doglever 7 2 and is adapted to maintain the feed-dog in substantialparallelism with the line of its longitudinal movement.

The feed-actuating means in one preferred form thereof shown comprises asuitable shaft 80, journaled in bearings 81 and S2 of the brackets 4 and5 of the bed-plate 2, and is provided with a pair of collars S3 and 84,secured thereon and engaging the inner faces of said brackets forpreventing longitudinal movement of said shaft. This shaft is hereinshown having a bored end 85 for the reception of a supplemental shaft86, which is splined therein for longitudinal adjustment, but is securedagainst independent rotary movement. This supplemental shaft 86 isprovided with an enlarged head or block 87, having an exterior annulargroove 88 and an interior inclined eecentrically-disposed bore 89.Fitted for adjustment within this inclined bore 89 is a sliding member90, formed by two separable members 91 and 92, each of which is providedwith a semicircular recess, which when in position relatively to eachother form a socket 93 forthe reception of a spherical end 94 of thefeed-lever 72, whereby on the rotation of the shafts 80 and 86 thefeed-dog is given its vertical and horizontal oscillations in anelliptical path in a manner that will be readily understood. The memberis shown having a flaring month 95, communicating with its socket 93,whereby the feed-dog lever 72, which is reduced at this point, will notbe retarded in its movement.

As one means for adjusting the feed-dog lever, and thereby the feed-dog,to increase or decrease its eifective throw, and thus regu late itsfeed, an adjustable member 06, having bifurcated arms 97 fitting Withinthe exterior groove 88 of the block 87, is adjustably secured to theunder side of the bedplate and is herein shown adapted to slide in a way98, formed by a pair of ribs 09 on the under side of said plate. Fixedlysecured to this member 96 and extending through an elongated slot 100 ofthe bed-plate 2 is a threaded stud 100, having a clamp-nut 100 thereon,a washer 100" being interposed between the under side of said clamp-nutand the upper side of said bed-plate. On the adjustment of the member 96by means of the clamp-nut 100 the supplemental shaft 80 and its block 87will be moved longitudinally relatively to the feed-lever and the shaft80 to thereby increase or decrease the eccentricity of the two-partmember 90, supported in the inclined bore thereof, and thus regulate thefeed of the feed-dog.

One means for rotating the looper and actuating the feed-lever and itsdog comprises a train of intermeshing gears 101, 102, and 103, one, as101, preferably forming a part of the member a of the cam-cylinder 20and rotatable therewith and meshing with the gear 102, adjustablysecured to the feed-actuating lever -shaft 80, and which in turn mesheswith the gear 103, carried by the rotatable shaft 62, and which gearsare so constructed for the purposes of this particular form of machinethat to every complete rotation of the cylinder 20 the looper will berotated one and one-third of a rotation, While the feeddog will beactuated twice, whereby it will feed at each two-thirds of a rotation ofthe loop-taker, or, in other words, at each onefourth of a rotation ofthe cam-cylinder the looper will be moved one-third of a rotation forthe purpose hereinafter set forth.

The pulley and hand wheels 25 and 26 are herein shown mounted on thecam-shaft 23; but it is obvious that in practice they may be disposed onthe feed-actuating shaft or on the looper-shaft, if desired, and thesame results be obtained.

Each needle-thread s and t is carried by a separate spool 100 and 105,respectively, the spool-spindles 106 and thereof being carried on thearm 10.

As a means for guiding the threads from the spools a guide device,herein shown in the nature of a bar 107, havinga pair of eyes at one endthereof, through which the threads pass, is disposed on the arm 10,adjacent to said spools. A similar guide device 110, having a pair ofeyes at its outer end, is likewise disposed adjacent to themachine-head.

Suitable tension devices are provided for the threads, and in thepresent construction thereof they are shown disposed at one side of thearm 10, and each preferably comprises a pair of non-rotatable clampingmembers or disks 109 and 109 and 109" and 100, respectively, disposedside by side and secured for lateral adjustment on the end of a spindle110 by a nut 113, a tension-spring 111 being interposed between theinner disk or member 109 and a plate 114, carried by said spindle.

An additional tension or guide device may be secured adjacent to thelower end of each needle-bar 0c and y and also adjacent to the lower endof the machine-head, if desired; but in the present construction onlyapair of guide eyes or loops 112 and 112' are shown in position at thepoints indicated for guiding the threads, and which eyes or loops may beformed as spirals or in any otherdesired way.

It will be understood that in practice other suitable means might beused for rotating the looper and for actuating the needles and thatother feed mechanism might also be used, if desired, and that also othertension means and guides might be used, if desired.

In the operation of this improved sewingmachine in order to form theparticular character of stitch herein set forth, motion having beenimparted to the driving-pulley from any suitable source of power, oneneedle, as a", will be caused to descend, carrying with it the threadthrough the fabric 150, which on the inauguration of the upward movementof the needle forms a loop which will be taken by one of the hooks-forinstance, as m of the set m, Figs. 14, 15, and 16-and carried completelyaround the looper for the purpose of having a loop from the oppositeneedle carried therethrough, said looper moving in the direction of thearrow. When, however, the first loop has been carried substantiallyonethird way around the looper, Figs. 17 to 19, by the hook m, theneedle x is ascending, while the needle y is descending, both needles,however, being entirely outof the fabric, at which time the feed of thefabric by means of the feed-actuating mechanism takes place, and duringwhich feeding movement a pair of hooks, as 'm and of, are skipped, asneither needle is in position to have the hooks engage the threadthereof. When the hook m has moved substantially two-thirds way around,Figs. 20, 21, and 22, the needle 00 has completely ascended and theneedle 3 descended and has commenced its return movement, therebyforming a loop in the usual way, which loop is taken by a hook, as n, ofthe opposite set of loop-takers n and which also carries the sameentirely around the looper. When such hook to has rotated onethird wayaround, however, with the second loop of the series, Figs. 23,24, and25, the first hook m of the first set-m has made one complete rotation,the loop thereof being withdrawn from the hook m and such hook m and itscompanion hook n being skipped in a similar manner to that set forth inconnection with books 971. and 91- at which time the needle y isreascending and the first needle a; again descending, both needles,however, being entirely out of the fabric, at which time the feedthereof again takes place in a simi lar manner to that above describedin connection with the needle m.

From the above it will be seen that there will be one feed for eachneedle substantially immediately after a hook of the looper has engagedthe loop of that needle and while one needle is ascending and the otherdescending, both, however, being out of the fabric.

When the book a has carried the second loop substantially two thirds ofthe way around, Figs. 26, 27, and 28, the needle whas completelydescended and has commenced its return, thereby forming a loop whichwill be engaged by the second hook m of the set 'm, which when the samehas arrived one-third way around, Figs. 29, 30, and 31, the first hook nof the set a has made one complete rotation, its loop having beenwithdrawn in the usual manner, the feed again taking place at this timein a similar manner to that here= inbefore described. When the hook mhas been rotated two-thirds way around, Figs. 32, 33, and 34, theopposite needle y has again made a second descent and is reascendin g,thereby forming a loop which will be engaged by the hook n of theopposite set a, the hooks n and m having been skipped in the mannerabove set forth. When the hook n has carried its loop one-third wayaround, the hook m of the set m has made a complete rotation and lostits loop, while the needle y is reascending and the needle w descending,at which time the feed takes place, as before set forth, Figs. 35, 36,and 37, and when the hook n has moved two-thirds way around the lasthook m of the set on will be in position to engage a'loop from theneedle 00, and when such hook m has also moved two-thirds way around thelast hook n of the set 71/ will be in position to engage a loop from theneedle y. Thus it will be seen that each needle acts in connection withthe same set of hooks throughout the entire operation of the machine andthat the hooks of eachset act in alternation with each other, allworking, however, in the same direction, and in this construction itwill also be seen that the hook of one set is rotated two-thirds wayaround before a hook of the opposite set engages a loop, whereby a pairof hooks is skipped alternately, and from which it will also be seenthat the looper makes one and one-third of a rotation before a hook ofthe same set at one side thereof again takes a loop. By this improvedstitchforming mechanism a double seam is formed in which the alternatingdiagonally-disposed loops of the stitches are made of differentthreads-that is to say, all of the diagonally extending loops of oneseam are made of one thread, while all the loops of the opposite seamare made of another thread, such loops, however, alternating with eachother, wherebya chain-stitch will be formed in which each loop of theseries of loops will extend throughacompanion loop, or, in other words,in which the alternating loops of the two seams will extend one throughthe other,

ICC

whereby the fabric will have on one side thereof two relatively remoterows of parallel stitches and on its opposite side a series ofdiagonally or obliquely disposed stitches or loops extending crosswiseof the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engagingits companion loop substantially midway of its length, whereby thetension of the threads is equalized throughout, Figs. 7, 8, and 0.

In order to illustrate more clearly the periods at which the feed of thefabric takes place and the operation of the cam-cylinder, reference isnow more particularly made to Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13, from which itwill be seen that when the needle 00 is in the position marked a and isascending from below the fabric (indicated by 150) the needle 'I/ is inits starting position and is about to descend, and when the cam devicehas moved to the position marked 7), Figs. 12 and 13, relatively to theneedle-actuating lever-arms 31 and 36 the needles :1; and 1] have movedin their respective paths to the line marked 1), Fig. 10, shortly afterwhich, at the point marked 151, the feeding mechanism is operated intoposition to commence its feed,which in practice is inaugurated slightlybefore the needle 00 leaves the fabric, such feed taking place from thispoint until the needles 0: and 'g reach the point 151, slightly beyondthe line f, from which time the needle g descends below the fabric 150,the needle a: being entirely out of the same, the feed again commencingshortly before the needle q reaches the point marked 151, Fig. 10, fromwhich point both needles 7 and it, the latter of which is descending,will be out of the fabric, the feed continuing until such needle 00 haspractically reached the point marked 151', after which it completelydescends to form the loop, the needle 7 reascending in the meantime.

By a comparison of the lines a Z) c d c, &c., Fig. 10, with the similarlines ofFigs. 12 and 13 the position of the cam-cylinder 2O relativelyto the needle-actuating lever-arms 3i and 36 will be clearly understood,and from which it will also be seen that one cam-groove is so formedthat one needle will be actuated slightly in advance of the other, tothereby compensate for the distance between each pair of adjacent hooks,as m and 11 In the operation of this improved machine it will be notedthat all the hooks of the series of hooks 51 comprising the two sets mand n will operate in the same direction and will all in turn engage thethread of one or the other of the needles, to thereby carry a loopcompletely around the loop-taker, to thus form this improved doubleseam.

In that class of sewing-machines having only a single needle and arotatable looper the first or preceding loop is drawn up close to theunder side of the fabric by the action of the looper in drawing out thesecond or succeeding loop of the series of stitches, as

the loops are formed of one continuous thread; but in this improvedmachine, as each seam is composed of a different thread, it is necessarythat some suitable loopdake-up mechanism be provided for drawing up theloop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper while the oppositeneedle is forming its loop and having the same drawn out by said looper,and while other means might be used in practice for this purpose inplace of that herein shown the present construction of loop-take-upmechanism, which is substantially similar to that shown and described inmy prior application, filed September 5, 1806, Serial No. (304,093, is,however, adapted to accomplish this purpose satisfactorily, and will beherein again fully described in order that the operation of the same inconnection with this particular construction of looper will be clearlyunderstood. In order, therefore, to take up the loops, the thread of oneneedle is preferably in operative engagement with the needle-bar of itscompanion needle, whereby the threads will be crossed intermediate theirpoints of engagement with such bars and the eyes of the neodle-that isto say, one thread, as s, of the spool 106 passes through the eye 19 ofthe thread-take-up device 18 of the needle-bar 0c and is then led to theeye of the opposite needle 9 while the thread i from the other spool 105passes through the eye 19 of the thread-take-up device 18 of theopposite needle-bar y and is then led to the eye of the needle 50,whereby the loop formed by one needle will be partially drawn up on theascent of its companion needle, the complete drawing up of such loop notbeing obtained, however, by the needle-bars in the present constructionof machine owing to the fact that each loop when completely drawn out orhalf-way around the looper has a thread at each side thereof, and hencethe entire length of the loop is equal to nearly twice the diameter ofthe looper, whereby in order to completely draw up this length of threadby the needle-bars it would be necessary to have said needle-bars moveupward a distance substantially equal to the entire length of suchthread minus that portion thereof necessary to form the stitch, andwhich would be more or less disadvantageous in many ways. In order,therefore, to overcome this requirement and permit the needles to have acomparatively short stroke, and which in the present construction issufficient only to draw up a length of thread equal to a part of suchcompletely-drawn-out loop, suitable means is provided to assist theneedle-bars in obtaining the result, and which means is operable to drawup a length of thread substantially equal to the other portion of acompletely-drawnout loop minus the parts thereof necessary to form thestitch, whereby when coacting with the needle-bars it will formloop-take-up mechanism operable to completely draw up a loop in theproper manner. This means in the present construction thereof consistsof spring mechanism operable by the action of the looper in drawing outthe loops, and which mechanism is herein shown preferably comprising apair of relatively light spring members or bars 125 and 126, one foreach thread, and each of which is provided with an eye or loop 127 and128, respectively, at its outer end. These bars are carried on a spindle129, adjustably secured at any desired place on the machine-arm 10 bymeans of a set-screw 130 or other suitable device, and have their innerends 125' and 126 secured to and coiled on said spindle, preferably withright and left hand turns, whereby on the adjustment of the spindle, theouter end of which is provided with a slot for this purpose, the tensionof both spring-bars will be simultaneously increased or decreasedequally. In order to regulate the position of said bars, suitable meansis provided, preferably comprising a downwardly-extending arm 131,disposed on the spindle intermediate the spring-coils and adjustablelikewise by means of a set-screw 132 or other suitable device, wherebyit can be adjusted to correspond with the position of the spring-bars.This arm is provided at its lower end with a cross-pin 133, on which thespring members or bars 125 and 126 rest, whereby their downwardmovements are limited.

In threading the needles of my present construction of machine onethread, as s, is drawn from its spool 106 through one of the guide-eyesof the guide-bar 107, thence between one pair of tension-disks, as 109and 109', thence through one of the guide-eyes of the other guide-bar110, thence through the eye 128 of the spring-bar 126, thence throughthe eye of the thread-take-up 18' of the needle-bar 0t, and thence tothe eye of the opposite needle y, while the other thread, as if, isdrawn from its spool through the adjacent eyes of the guide-bars 107 andpassing between the other pair of tension-disks 109" and 109", thencethrough the eye 127 of the other spring-bar 125, thence through the eye19 of the other thread-take-up 18 of the needle-bar y, and thence to theeye of the needle at. As the positions of the looper mechanism of Figs.1, 2, 3, and 14,16, 17, and 19 vary somewhat, the operation of thisimproved looptake-up mechanism will be first described in connectionwith Figs. 14, 16, 17, and 19, from which it will be seen that theneedle 00, Figs. 14 and 16, having formed its loop from its thread iffor the looper, is ascending, Figs. 17 and 19, while the rotatablelooper is drawing out such loop around the same, themedle-bar ysimultaneously descending and carrying, by means-of its thread-take-up18, said thread if and thus permitting the loop to be partially drawnout. As the entire downward stroke of the needle y, however, is onlysufficient to permit the loop to be carried partially around the looper,therefore without the use of the spring-bars and 126 additional thread,in order to supply the deficiency, would have to be drawn from thespool, in which case the greater part of the.

thread so drawn therefrom would not be again taken up, as the upwardstroke of the needle L is only sufficient to take up the same amountthat was drawn out by the looper on the downward movement thereof. Henceduring a portion of the downward stroke of said needle t/ the spring-bar125 coacts therewith by the rotative movement of said looperand is drawnup sufficiently far to permit the looper to nearly completely draw outthe loop of said thread t of the needle 00 to its full extent in orderto carry it around the same, and which spring-bar 125 would thus be inthe same position in which the spring-bar 126 is shown in Fig. 2. When,however, said loop is nearly completely drawn out or nearly half wayaround the looper, the spring-bar 125 will be substantially equal intension to the main tension device, and hence the further movement ofthe looper in completely drawing out the loop to its full extentdraws anamount of thread from the spool necessary for the length of the stitchwithout further actuating the spring-bar 125 upward, and when the loopof said thread if and needle 00 has been carried half way around thelooper, or to the point g, Fig. 16, it is then in position to be drawnup; but the needle-bars in. this construction of machine have descendingmovements practically during two-thirds of a rotation of the looper,hence when the looper has moved one-half way around the needle-bar y,which is still descending, has reached the point g, Fig. 10,,and istherefore not in position to draw up the loop and does not commence itsreturn movement until it reaches the point 77', Fig. 10, and the looperhas also reached the point h, Fig. 16; but the slack of the loop isdrawn up while the looper is traveling from said point g to the point h,Fig. 16, by the movement of the spring-bar 125, which is permitted tomove downward slightly toward its normal position, so that when theneedle commences its return or upward movement the loop is further drawnup thereby, the spring bar coacting therewith and thus completelydrawing up the loop on the under side of the fabric, the combinedmovement of the needle-bar on its ascent and the return movement of thespring being substantially equal to the entire length of the thread of acompletely drawn-out loop minus that portion thereof which is necessaryto form the stitch. As the action of the opposite needle-bar is similarto that just described, it will thus be seen from the foregoing that thedescending needle-bar carries, by means of its thread-take-up device,that particular thread the loop of which is being drawn out by thelooper and that when the needle is on its return movement and ascendingthe loop has already been completely drawn out and carried beyond itshalf-way point around the looper and slightly drawn up by thespring-bar, so

that the needle and spring-bar coact together to complete the drawing upof said loop, and from which it will be further seen that thespring-bars coact with the needle-bars 011 the downward movement of saidbars to permit the looper to properly draw out the loops and on theupward movements of the bars to take up such loops. Referring now toFigs. 1, 2, and 3, in which the looper mechanism is in a somewhatdiiferent position from that shown in the figures just referred to, itwill be seen that the needle 0: has descended and is, for instance, atthe line marked h, Fig. 10, while the needle 3 has ascended and is atthe same line 7t, and hence practically at its highest point, but whileascending has had its loop carried half-way around the looper, thisoperation taking place while the said needle 00 was descending; but, asabove stated, as the entire downward stroke of the needle .02, whichcarries, by means of its take-up bar 18, the thread .9 of such (1awn-out loop, is only suflicient to permit a small portion of such loopto be drawn out by the looper, hence, as the loop is shown carriedhalf-way around said looper, the spring-bar 12G, therefore, has beendrawn up to its highest point by the action of such looper, Fig. 2,which point, however, was reached when the loop was nearly halfwayaround, so that when carried to its halfway point, in which it is shown,a part of the thread 8 of such loop, sufficient to form the length ofstitch, has been drawn directly from the spool without actuating saidspring-bar 126 farther upward, owing to the fact that the tension ofsaid spring-bar is then substantially equal tothe tension of the maintension device.

Having described my invention, I claim 1. In a sewing-machine, thecombination of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a rotatable looperhaving a series of loop-takers embodying two independent sets thereofall working in the same direction, one set at each side of theperipheral line of the looper; a plurality of needle mechanisms, oneoperative with each set of loop-takers; and actuating means therefor.

2. The combination with a movable looper having sets of hooks, the hooksof one set being located 011 one side, and those of the other set on theother side, of said looper; of a series of alternatelyoperable needles;and means for actuating said looper and needles.

3. The combination with a rotatable looper having a series of six hooksdisposed in pairs with relation to the periphery thereof and alloperative in the same direction, and the hooks of one set being locatedon one side, and those of the other set on the other side, of saidlooper; of a pair of alternately-operable needles; and means foractuating said looper and needles.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-formin g mechanismcomprising a rotatable looper having a series of hooks disposed inpairs, the hooks of each pair being disposed at opposite sides of thelooper and operative in the same direction, whereby two sets of hooksare formed at each side thereof and in alternation with each other; apair of alternately-operable needles, one operative with each set ofhooks; and actuating means therefor to thereby form a double seam,whereby the fabric will have on one side thereof two relatively remoterows of parallel stitches and on the opposite side thereof a series ofdiagonally or obliquely disposed stitches or loops extending crosswiseof the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engagingits companion loop intermediate its ends.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with needle mechanism, of arotatable looper having sets of hooks all operative in the samedirection, the hooks of one set being located 011 one side of the looperand pointing in one direction relatively to the sides of said looper,and those of the other set on the opposite side of the looper andpointing in the opposite direction relatively to the sides thereof, andone hook of each set being adjacent to the hook of the other set.

0. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations;rotatable means operatively connected to said feed-actuating lever andmovable longitudinally in the plane of the axis of said feed-lever, forregulating the throw of the feed-dog; and means for adjusting saidrotatable and longitudinally-movable means.

'7. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontaloscillations; rotatable means longitudinally movable in the plane of theaxis of said feed lever and carrying eccentrically-disposed meansoperatively connected with said feed-actuating lever; and means foradjusting said rotatable and longitudinally-movable means, to therebyregulate the throw of the feed-(log.

S. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations;rotatable and longitudinally-movable means carryingeccentrically-disposed means having a ball-and-socket connection withsaid feed-actuating lever; and means for adjusting said rotatable andlongitudinally-movable means, to thereby regulate the movement of thefeed-dog.

9. I11 a sewing-machine, the combination of feed mechanism comprising afeed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical andhorizontal oscillations; rotatable means longitudinally movable in theplane of the axis of the feed-actuatin g lever and operatively connectedthereto; means for adj ustin g said rotatable and longitudinally-movablemeans, to thereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog; and a linkpivotally secured to the feed-dog and to the framework, for holding saidfeed-dog in parallelism with the plane of its longitudinal movement.

10. In a sewing-machine, the combination with feed mechanism comprisinga feed-dog; of a feed-actuatin g lever pivotally supported in positionto actuate the feed-dog in an elliptical path; a rotatable,longitudinally-movable shaft having an inclined eccentricallydisposed boreor recess; a shiftable member disposed therein and operatively connectedwith one .end of said feed-actuating lever; means for moving said shaftlongitudinally; and vibratory means secured to the feed-dog and to theframework for holding said feeddog in parallelism with the plane of itslongitudinal movement.

11. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog afeed-actuating lever pivotally supported for. vertical and horizontaloscillations; a rotatable, longitudinallymovable shaft having aninclined, eccentrically-disposed recess or bore; a sliding memberdisposed in said bore and operatively connected' with the end of saidfeed-actuating lever; and means for moving said shaft longitudinally, tothereby regulate the effective movement of the dog. I I

12. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontaloscillations; a rotatable shaft having a bored end; a supplemental shaftsplined thereto for longitudinal movement, said supplemental shafthaving its free end provided with an inclined eccentrically-disposedrecess or bore; and a sliding member disposed therein and operativelyconnected with the end of said feed actuating lever; and means formoving said supplemental shaft longitudinally, to thereby regulate theeffective throw of the feed-dog,

\ 13. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever pivotally secured for vertical and horizontaloscillations; a rotatable shaft having a bored end; a supplemental shaftsplined thereto for longitudinal movement and having an enlarged endprovided with an inclined, eccentrically disposed bore or recess; asliding member disposed in such recess and operatively connected withthe end of such feedlever; and sliding means operatively connected withthe supplemental shaftfor moving the same longitudinally, to therebyregulate the effective throw of the feed-dog.

14:- The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog afeed-actuating lever pivotally secured for vertical and horizontaloscillations, said leverhaving a spherical end; a rotatablelongitudinally-movable shaft having an inclined, eccentrically-disposedrecess or bore; a sliding member disposed in said recess and having asocket into which the spherical end of said lever extends; means forrotating said shaft; and means for longitudinally moving said shaft, tothereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog.

15. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; afeed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontaloscillations and having a spherical end; a rotatable shaft having abored end; a

supplemental shaft splined in such bored end for longitudinal movement,said shaft having an enlarged head provided with an exterior groove andwith an inclined, eccentrically= disposed recess; a sliding membertherein having a socket for the reception of said spherical end; and anadjustable member having a bifurcated arm engaging the exterior grooveof said supplemental shaft and adapted to move the supplemental shaftlongitudinally and thereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination of feed mechanism comprising afeed-dog; a

feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for 7 vertical and horizontaloscillations and having a spherical end; a rotatablelongitudinally-movable shafthaving an inclined eccentrically-disposedbore or recess; a sliding member disposed in said bore and comprisingseparable members, each of said members having a recess, whereby whensaid members are in position relatively to each other a socket is formedfor the reception of the spherical end of the feed-actuating lever; andmeans for adjusting said supplemental shaft longitudinally, to therebyregulate the feed of the feed-dog;

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a downwardlyextending bracket pivotally secured to the framework for verticaloscillation a feed-actuating lever carrying a feed-dog and pivotallysecured to said bracket for horizontal oscillation, said lever having aspherical end; a rotatable shaft journaled'in said framework and havinga bored end; a supplemental shaft splined in the bore of said rotatableshaft for longitudinal movement and having an enlarged head having anexterior annular groove and an inclined, eccentrically-disposed bore orrecess; a two-part member disposed in said inclined recess and having asocket for the reception of the spherical end of said lever; an

IIO

adjustable member having a bifurcated arm engaging the annular groove ofthe supplemental shaft; and a clamping device secured to said adjustablemember for actuating and clamping the same in position, to thereby movethe supplemental shaft longitudinally relatively to the rotatable shaftand feed-lever, to thereby adjust the effective throw of the feed-dog.

18. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a peripherally-supportedlooper having two sets of loop-takers disposed at opposite sides of theperipheral line of said looper and all operative in the same directionand each set comprising a plurality of loop-takers 5 needle mechanism;feeding mechanism; and actuating means for said looper, needle, andfeeding mechanisms.

19. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotatable looper havingtwo sets of looptakers or hooks disposed at opposite sides of theperipheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction and eachset comprising a plurality of loop-takers; of a pair ofalternately-operable needles, one disposed in front of the other andadapted to operate at each side of the looper, respectively, one witheach set of hooks; feed mechanism operative to feed the fabric; andactuating mechanism for said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

20. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a loopersupported for rotation, said looper having a series of hooks comprisingtwo sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof andall operative in the same direction and each set comprising a pluralityof hooks; needle mechanism comprising a pair of alternately-operableneedle-bars; a cylinder having a pair of cam grooves; and oscillatorylevers, operatively connected with the needle-bars and with thecam-grooves of the cylinder,whereby said needle-bars will be alternatelyactuated; feed mechanism; and means for actuating said cylinder, looperand feed mechanisms.

21. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a loopersupported for rotation, said looper havinga series of hooks comprisingtwo sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof andall operative in the same direction; a rotatable shaft having means foractuating said looper needle mechanism comprising a pair ofalternately-operable needle-bars; a cylinder having a pair ofcam-grooves and oscillatory levers, one lever being operativelyconnected with each needlebar and with one cam-groove of the cylinder,

0 whereby said needle-bars will be alternately actuated; feed mechanismembodying a rotatable shaft; and intermeshin g gears carried by saidcylinder, feed-shaft, and looper-shaft, for imparting motion to saidlooper, feed mechanism, and needle mechanism.

22. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a peripherallysupported looper having two sets of hooks disposed at opposite sides ofthe peripheral line thereof and each set comprising a plurality of hooksand all of said hooks having their hook-engaging portions or pointsprojecting in the same circumferential direction and disposed inalternation with each other relatively to the peripheral line of thelooper; needle mechanism embodying alternately-reciprocating needlebars;feed mechanism; means for adjusting said feed mechanism; and means foractuating said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

23. A looper comprising a circular or diskshaped member, provided with aseries of loop-takers disposed in sets of three, one set being locatedon each side of the peripheral line of the looper, and each loop-takerhaving its loop-engaging face projecting in the same circumferentialdirection.

24. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shapedmember having a series of loop-takers comprising two sets, one setdisposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and each setcomprising a series of three loop-takers and one looptaker of each setbeing adjacent to a loop-taker of the other set and all operative in thesame direction, whereby each loop-taker in the operation of the looperis adapted to engage a loop of a needle-thread, to thereby form astitch.

25. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shapedmember having a series of loop-takers all operative in the samedirection and comprising two oppositelydisposed sets, one set disposedat each side of the peripheral line thereof and each looptaker of oneset being operative alternately with a loop-taker of the opposite set,whereby when in position each loop-taker, in the operation of the looperand during the rotation thereof in the same direction, is adapted toengage a loop of a needle-thread, to thereby form a stitch.

26. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shapedmember having a series of loop-takers comprising two sets, one setdisposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and such series oflooptakers being disposed in pairs, one loop-taker of one set beingadjacent to a loop-taker of the opposite set, whereby the loop-takers ofeach set are disposed in alternation with each other and all of saidloop-takers being opera= tive in the same direction, whereby on therotation of the looper each loop-taker will engage a loop of aneedle-thread, to form a stitch.

27. In a sewing-machine, the combination with framework, of a rotatablelooper having two sets of hooks disposed at opposite sides of theperipheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction; a shaftjournaled in said framework and carrying means for actuating saidlooper; a pair of reciprocatory needle-bars carrying needles; acam-cylinder also jonrnaled in said framework; oscillatory meansoperatively connecting said needlebars and cam-cylinder, forreciprocating said needles alternately; feed mechanism embodying arotatable shaft journaled in said framework; a train of gears connectingsaid camcylinder, looper-shaft, and feedshaft, the gears of saidcam-cylinder and feed-shaft having a ratio of two to one, and the gearsof said feed-shaft and looper-shaft having a ratio of two to one andone-half, whereby each needle will be operated once and the feedmechanism twice during each one and one-third rotation of the looper.

28. A looper provided with a series of hooks, some of which have theirloop-engaging faces on one side of the looper, and others of which havetheir loop-engaging faces on the other too ICS

loop to one side of the looper and then to pre- 10 sent a loop to theother side of the looper; and means for actuating said needle mechanism.

FRANCIS H. RICHARDS.

Witnesses:

FRED. J. DOLE, GEO. A. HOFFMAN.

